Cold Rag

Another hike up Old Rag for the sunrise this past weekend. I knew it had snowed earlier this week, but I didn't expect there to be quite as much snow as there was while ascending. Toward the summit there was a good five inches. I had never been up Old Rag after a snowfall and it was just absurdly beautiful. The thick golden light of the early morning sun reflecting and refracting through snow and ice creating flaring gradients from deep purple and honey yellows to pure whites. It was cold, to be sure, but I had never seen the Shenandoah Valley in that state before and it was absolutely worth the few hours of chill.

Yosemite (ii): Diving Vernal Falls

From Taft Point we made our way to the Mist Trail. A well traveled paved path that makes up the start of the trek to Half Dome, the Mist Trail has a mildly hidden gem just 2.5 miles in. Vernal Falls is a smaller waterfall in the park and the lower of a pair (the other half being Nevada Falls). From the trail you can see the by now meager trickle of water tumbling down in a fine mist across a granite wall stained with the torrent of a fuller current. Divert off the path toward the falls and over a small ridge of mist slicked boulders and you'll come to a small pool at the base of the falls. This pool seems almost tailor made for diving and swimming. Just opposite the narrow band of falling mist is a large boulder just shy of 20 feet high that juts out into the pool like a diving platform. It was probably in the low 50s and the water was maybe low 40s. It was going to be a shock of cold. I took a good 15 minutes to muster up the courage (with the aid of the bourbon in my flask) to strip and make the jump. For just a second the low roar of the crashing water faded to a soft hum and I floated frozen in the cold air with just the green blue expanse suspended below my feet. Then I broke the surface and thousands of icy needles stabbed my skin and my brain before I swam frantically back to shore. It was amazing.

After we had all made the leap, we were too cold and wet to do anymore hiking. We made our way back to Curry Village, but it began to rain. We made a gametime decision to just head back to LA that evening. A combination of inclement weather and ailments made for a fairly abridged trip to Yosemite, but it was still incredible. I definitely need to go back. Anyone up for Half Dome next time?

Yosemite (i): Sky Walker

This past weekend I caught a flight out to LAX to finally make my way to Yosemite. I had tried to go this time last year, but a massive forest fire diverted me to Banff and Jasper. Between work travel and weddings, there weren't a whole lot of weekends left for me to go this year before it got too cold so I booked a ticket somewhat impulsively last month and flew out on Friday. I had originally intended to go alone, but ended up picking up a few old friends in LA to join me.

We made the five hour drive from LA Friday after stopping at a Chik-fil-a for a quick lunch. After copious car karaoke and reminiscing, we suddenly found ourselves in the Yosemite Valley. Towering plumes of granite sloping skyward on either side. With just an hour to sunset from the time we entered, we sped toward Glacier Point to catch the last light of the day opposite Half Dome. Switchbacking up the slopes we caught glimpses of dramatic vistas that only whet our appetites for the whole valley. And Glacier Point did not disappoint. Half Dome towered over rolling waves of bare rock where pines grew only when their slopes were shallow enough for them to take root. The fading light retreated swiftly eastward toward the horizon like a door shutting on an unlit room. Low hanging clouds meandered through the valley listlessly. It made me feel smaller than I have in a while. 

Unfortunately it began to rain shortly after the sun set. Rather than trying to set up camp in the rain and to avoid making E anymore sick than she was, we opted to take refuge at Curry Village. We got up early to head back toward Glacier Point for the sunrise, but diverted to Taft Point. At about 5am, we made the 1.2 mile hike to the sheer cliffs at Taft and took in another throat catching view of the valley. We took turns stepping as close to the near vertical drops as we dared before vertigo turned us away. The sun warmed us as it ascended and burned away mist and frost. We partook in some provisions and plotted out the rest of our day, weather contingent.

When we finally descended, we were heading toward the Mist Trail and Vernal Falls. Despite the raw, imposing majesty of the valley bathed in the orange glow of dusk and dawn, our visit to Vernal Falls was the most memorable part of the trip for me. Stay tuned.