Hong Kong (ii): Three Days of Stuffing My Face

Per usual, most of my itinerary in Hong Kong was planned around my meals. I'm envious of culinary cultures that exalt the small specialty shops that make one amazing thing just as much the contemporary spots. I wish there were more of that here. Tiny char siu shops, Michelin rated dim sum, probably the best modern izakaya I've ever been to. Here's some food porn.

Highlights include:

A hot pot place that I got taken to (by a girl I met my first evening that works in the wine industry and gave me a lot of tips about dining in Hong Kong) that provided a giant tray of seasonings to create your own dipping sauce. Lots of ginger.

Tim Ho Wan because the internet yelled at me to go there. I went to the IFC Mall location and it was pretty easy to find because it was the only place with a giant crowd waiting out front. I got seated almost immediately being a party of one and proceeded to order enough food for four people. BBQ pork pineapple buns were unreal. Worth the Michelin star for those alone.

Roast goose and char siu at Yat Lok and Joy Hing respectively. Perfect caramelization and mouthwateringly fatty and tender both. These are the kinds of shops I would die eating in if I had them near me.

Yard Bird is a modern izakaya that has an amazing Japanese whisky list, traditional yakitori, and a menu of contemporary dishes. A chicken liver pâté that was rich without being unctuous topped with weirdly delicious onion strings. I don't remember ever thinking how good onion strings are. Tempura corn balls that were sweet, tender, and fun to eat. Some of the best chicken oysters I've had this side of Tokyo. Finished off with their KFC-Korean Fried Cauliflower. Perfectly crisped skin and an expertly balanced sweet-spicy sauce.

Hong Kong (i): Sauna City

At this point, my time in Hong Kong was four months ago. In the interim there have been weddings, another month in Timor-Leste, and an amazing few days in Tokyo, but Hong Kong still sticks in my memory as another fantastic Asian metropolis. I often tell people Tokyo is my favorite city, but Hong Kong sits comfortably in my top five. It's an oppressive sauna of a place, even more so than was Da Nang, and I often found myself having difficulty staying hydrated and even breathing, but it's an amazing, dense, delicious, and at times serene place. The verticality of the place makes Manhattan look lilliputian by comparison. The view from Victoria Peak is amazing, if infuriatingly crowded. Quiet oases like the Chi Lin Nunnery are mercifully refreshing respites from the city. I did, however, spend a lot of my time hanging out in Central and got quite well versed at navigating my way through downtown through all the underground passages and covered tunnels to spend as much time in air conditioning as possible. Like a lot of cities that I only visit for a few days, I wish I had more time to explore and eat my way through everything I missed. Here are a handful of photos about Hong Kong. Stay tuned for the food porn.